2023 gave Mount Mary a Chardonnay with more concentration than usual, without losing its restraint. White peach, pear and preserved lemon sit over almond and a little struck match, with oyster-shell minerality underneath. The acidity is tight and the texture chalky and salty, leading into a long, nutty finish. Lovely now, better in ten years. James Suckling 98, Wine Advocate 97, James Halliday's Wine Companion 97.