A cooler 2023 season in the Yarra gave Sam Middleton a Triolet with real tension. Lemon, grapefruit and Asian pear lead, with flint and a little beeswax from the barrel. The acidity is tighter than in recent releases, carried by a silky, chalky texture and a long citrus-rind finish. It drinks well now, but this is a wine to put away for a decade or more. James Suckling 99, James Halliday's Wine Companion 97, Wine Advocate 96.